By Sherman Chan,
Special to The Post

Instead of the usual parm/truffle aioli with arugula in the Wagyu Beef Carpaccio, we had thin slices of buttery, yet beef brushed with a fish sauce Asian vinaigrette and topped with horseradish aioli, triple crunch mustard, house pickles and arugula and squid ink parm chip. It was light and appetizing due to the acidity.

The Heirloom Tomato Salad’s brightness and acidity was impactful. The sweet balsamic and the flavours blended from tangy to sweet.

The Local Salmon with lardo and Hollandaise, black radish, pine nuts and ikura needed work. It was barely cooked through and moist. The Hollandaise needed more lemon. Being overly firm and dense seared bacon and Manchego gnocchi was the problem.

The Albacore Tuna Poke was a "deconstructed" version consisted of tuna sashimi, tataki and belly with compressed watermelon, ponzu, ikura, avocado and crushed sesame. This was very tasty. The buttery and sweet tuna was complimented by the poke dressing.

The Moroccan Spiced Lamb, which had deboned rack and loin mousse sausage, was tasty. However, the mousse with a chunk of loin was the real winner.

The Roast Chicken Duo didn't disappoint. Featuring a sous-vide and seared chicken breast and thigh presse, both were succulent and moist while accented by the Shao Xing sauce.

For dessert, the Peach Mille Feuille came with almond financier, brown butter powder, and popcorn ice cream. It was mildly sweet with buttery layers of crepe and lots of fruit. The gel’s tartness made the flavours pop. With very few flaws, the tasting menu was well-thought out and the execution was spot on. Loved the use of acidity and balance of flavours. Executive Chef Keith Pears continues the tradition of elevating eats.

EBO Restaurant

4331 Dominion Street, Burnaby, BC

The Good:

• Better than most hotel restaurants

• Kid-friendly

• Spacious and comfortable

The Bad:

• Use of acidity for the first three dishes was noticeable. I loved it. But for others, it could be too much

Sherman Chan is the #1 ranked food blogger on the Vancouver portal of Urbanspoon.com. Read more of his reviews at www.shermansfoodadventures.com