By Sherman Chan,
Special to The Post

The Seafood Tower for two included clams, honey mussels, tiger prawns, king crab legs, Fanny Bay oysters and a lobster tail. It was prepared correctly. We thought the oysters were on point being sweet and briny with no shell fragments.

The Brome Lake Duck Breast prepared medium was executed properly with decently rendered skin. I would've liked it crispier, but it wasn't overly fatty either. The Spicy Lobster Spaghettini came with roasted tomato, fresno chilies and salt spring mussels. The pasta was a touch soft, yet still good. The sauce was nicely tart, flavour and full-of-depth. It could've used more seafoodiness. The small piece of lobster was perfectly prepared.

The 10oz New York USDA Prime Striploin was a perfect medium-rare; it was juicy and flavourful. There was a crusty and peppery char on the outside that created a nice smokiness and slight crispiness. The meat lived up to its billing.

The Josper Grilled Salmon Steak was a dud. It was overdone, but wasn't overseasoned as the chimichurri added the necessary brightness. The Seared Ahi Tuna & Shiitake Mushroom Vinagrette’s tuna was rare in the middle, but the exterior was cooked too much. The fish dishes were disappointing.

For dessert, we had the complimentary Vanilla Cheesecake. Beautifully presented, it had a hybrid texture of a panna cotta and cheesecake. Inside, dulce de leche was sweet and smoky providing the rich sugariness the mild cheesecake needed.

Overall, our meal at Atlas was decent. However, for the price point, we would've liked to see more consistent execution.

ATLAS Steak + Fish

4331 Dominion Street, Burnaby, BC

The Good:

• Attentive and friendly service

• Nice revamp of the dining space

• Good meat quality

The Bad:

• Inconsistent execution

• High price point (okay for the things made right, but not for those that weren't)

Sherman Chan is the #1 ranked food blogger on the Vancouver portal of Urbanspoon.com. Read more of his reviews at www.shermansfoodadventures.com.