Restaurant Review: North Noodle House

By Sherman Chan,
Special to The Post

We snagged one of the limited tables.  The Cumin Lamb came on a bed of cilantro, which was much better than the one I had at Chuanyue.  The lamb had decent wok-heat.  I liked how the spice level had layers while the cumin was still apparent.  Surprisingly, the beef pancake roll was flaky and a touch greasy, reminding me of the one found at Peaceful.  Inside, there was more green onion and buttery tender slices of beef shank with quite a bit of hoisin.
We got the Cutting Noodles stir-fried with wood ear mushrooms and egg.  This large dish had chewy thick noodles that had a nice rebound texture.  The wok-heat was "okay"; the caramelization of flavour was mild.  The impact of the dish was not very apparent.  It was more of a study of textures than flavours.  The Dragging Noodles with beef in soup had noodles that were mildly chewy in a flavourful clear broth.  Usually this type of clear both is mild and almost bland. The beef was buttery tender, yet a bit under seasoned.
Lastly, we had the Pan-Fried Dumplings.  As fluffy as they appeared (made with fresh dough), the dumplings were mostly dense, yet crispy on the bottom.  The pork and green onion filling was flavourful and juicy and well-seasoned.  I was able to be livened up the thick "bao" wrapper with vinegar.  The dumplings looked better than it tasted.  Despite this, the rest of the dishes were pretty solid.  Definitely an option for a quick meal if you were in the area.

Sherman Chan is the #1 ranked food blogger on the Vancouver portal of Urbanspoon.com. Read more of his reviews at www.shermansfoodadventures.com.

North Noodle House
Third Floor, 356-800 Carnarvon Street, New Westminster, BC

The Good:
• Solid hand-made noodles
• Nice people

The Bad:
• Seasoning for the cutting noodles could be more impactful
• The bao dough could be lighter

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