Restaurant Review: Poor Italian Ristorante

By Sherman Chan,
Special to The Post

 

Although the Calamari Fritti was a touch greasy, the exterior was crispy while the squid was tender with a nice snap. The Misto di Cozze e Vongole (Mussels & Clams) was prepared in a light tomato sauce with Mediterranean herbs and dry white wine. This was on point. The wine was properly cooked down and the tomato was only lightly tart.

My favourite pasta was the Tagliatelle con Funghi with wild mushrooms, white wine, truffle oil and shaved parmigiano. Layers of woodsy flavours came through as well as the saltiness from the cheese. My second favourite was the Spaghetti Carbonara with eggs, smoked pancetta, parmigiano reggiano and cracked black pepper. It had a classic flavour profile with the creaminess from the eggs and the saltiness from the pancetta and cheese.

The Linguine alla Vongole featured local baby clams, garlic, white wine and EVOO. It was our least favourite. The pasta was a little overdone and was a bit bland. It had too much EVOO. The Grigliata di Carne Mista (Trio of Meats with Calvados Demi-Glace) was a complete disappointment. The chicken was stiff and dry while the medium sirloin tasted funky. Only the chorizo was somewhat appetizing.

Fortunately, the Vitello al Marsala (Veal Scaloppine sauteed with butter, mushrooms and marsala wine reduction) was much better. The dish came with a beautifully prepared sauce that was woodsy, aromatic and full of depth. The daily feature was the Osso Bucco di Agnello (Lamb Shank) with a tomato sauce, garlic, white wine and herbs. The lamb itself was generally tender and moist. The spaghetti was on point and went well with the tangy and garlicky sauce. Overall, we found the appies and pastas to be much more superior to the entrees. Considering the pricing, we expected better execution.

 

Poor Italian Ristorante

3296 E 1st Ave, Vancouver, BC

 

The Good:

• Appealing appetizers

• Nice dining space

 

The Bad:

• Only one good entree

• Need more consistent execution considering the price point

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