By Sherman Chan,
Special to The Post

The Lo Mei Gai (Sticky Rice in lotus leaves) had a good ratio of ground pork and shiitake mushrooms as well as the requisite cured sausage and had just enough seasoning. The XO Stir-Fried Daikon Pudding Cake was on point and was appealingly crispy on the outside. The light toss of XO sauce added a spicy brininess. It was not very greasy.

The Ha Gau (Shrimp Dumplings) and Siu Mai (Pork & Shrimp Dumplings) were impressively large and tasted good. It was a tad over-steamed. The filling was buttery, moist and loose. The siu mai pork pieces were too meaty and lacked the classic bounce texture. There was plenty of shrimp though. It has sweetness balanced by saltiness.

Although the Steamed Spareribs with Crystal Noodles were made from mung beans, the noodles were low in carbs. The noodles were perfectly chewy. The spareribs were a bit over-tenderized. The dish ate blandly. The Shrimp with Garlic Spring Rolls were served hot and crunchy. They were easy on the grease while the filling was full of buttery shrimp. The garlic and seasoning really came through.

Lightly battered, the Deep Fried Squid was crispy on the outside. Everything was complete with a wok-toss of garlic, peppers, and salt, yet not greasy. The Seafood Yee Mein Hot Pot was mediocre. The noodles were dry and chewy and extremely bland.

For dessert, we had the Sweet Salted Egg Yolk Buns. The custard watery, but had a muted sweetness and the umaminess of salted egg yolk. The bun was fairly light and fluffy. In the end, Ryan's Restaurant satisfied what a Dim Sum meal should be about. It wasn't outstanding, but given its location, there is not much to complain about when it comes to the food. Solid neighborhood spot.

Wah Lun Chinese Restaurant

4524 Hastings Street, Burnaby, BC 

The Good:

• More than acceptable Dim Sum

• Well-portioned

• Decent amount of choice for a small place

The Bad:

• A little pricey this class of restaurant

• Needs renos

• Service can be spotty

Sherman Chan is the #1 ranked food blogger on the Vancouver portal of Urbanspoon.com. Read more of his reviews at www.shermansfoodadventures.com.